How to Build Suspended Bookshelves

Cut and prefinish the parts

Start by ripping the shelves to the widths given in the Cutting List (See “Additional Information” below). We used a full-width 1×10 for the bottom shelf and successively narrower boards as we went up. Making all the shelves the same width would be OK, too.

While you’re at it, rip two 1-in.-wide strips from the 1x2s for the support cleats. Next, cut the boards to length. We used a 45-degree chamfer bit and router to bevel the ends and front edges of the shelves, but you could leave them square if you’d like. After the parts are cut and prefinished, you’re ready to assemble the shelf.

Drill an angled hole for the cable

Start by drilling straight down about 1/8 in. Then tilt the drill to about a 45-degree angle and use the starter hole to keep the bit in place as you start to drill. The angle of the hole isn’t critical.

Nail the shelves to the cleats

Drive a brad through the shelf into the support cleat. These brads just hold the shelves in place when you flip the bookshelf over to drive in the shelf screws and secure the cable.

Assemble the shelves

Add a cleat under the shelf and nail it in. Then add another shelf and tack it to the cleat. Continue like this until you get to the bottom. Now do the same thing on the other side.

The shelves are too big to build on a normal workbench. If you’re young and nimble, you could put them together on the floor. Otherwise, save your back and line up a few old doors on a pair of sawhorses.

Assembly is straightforward:

• Mark the back of the shelves 13-in. from the ends so you’ll know where to line them up with the standards.
• Keep the shelves and standards at a right angle to each other as you attach the cleats. That’ll ensure that the cleats fit tight to the shelves.
• Don’t drive nails where you’ll be drilling holes.
• Drill mounting screw holes after you have all the cleats installed. It’s easier to do it before you mount the shelves on the wall.

Thread the cable

Start at the bottom shelf and run the cable through the collars and shelves. Add two collars between each pair of shelves. At the top, thread the cable through the angled hole.

Fasten the shelves

Flip the bookshelf over and drive screws into the back of each shelf through the holes in the standards.

Anchor the cable with epoxy

The cable is flexible and easy to cut, so it’s a breeze to install. Just remember to put two collars on the cable, between each pair of shelves, as you thread the cable through the holes. Leave about 4 in. of cable sticking out the top and an extra foot or so on the bottom.

After stringing the cable, flip the whole work over so you can drive the shelf screws and anchor the top of the cable. Then mix five-minute epoxy and fill the recess with it. Take a coffee break while the epoxy sets up.

Mount the bookshelf

The shelf standards are spaced 32 in. on-center to align with studs.  So all you have to do is locate two studs where you want the shelves to go and mark them with masking tape. Screw the standards to the studs, making sure the shelves are level and the standards are plumb. Setting the shelves on blocks is a handy way to hold them up while you drive the first few screws. Start by driving one of the top screws.

Before you drive the top screw in the second standard, check to make sure the shelves are level. After the two top screws are in place, make sure the standards are plumb before you drive the remaining screws. We used No. 10 finish washers under the screws for a decorative effect.

Tighten the cable

Tighten the cable using a scrap of wood with a hole in it to put tension on the cable while you tighten the setscrew on the collar below the lowest shelf. Then snug the remaining collars to the top and bottom of the shelves and tighten the collars.

Trim and cap the cable

Use a side-cutting pliers or lineman’s pliers to cut the cable. Leave 1/4 in. protruding. Cover the end of the cable with a cap nut. Use hot-melt glue or silicone caulk to hold the cap nut in place.

At this point, the cable is slack and the collars are still loose. Your goal is to take the slack out of the cable and then adjust each shelf so it’s level from front to back while you tighten the collars. Use an Allen wrench to tighten the setscrews. Remember, you don’t need too much tension on the cable, just enough to remove the slack. Finish up by cutting the cable and covering the end with a cap nut.

Project PDF Files

Click the links below to download the construction drawings, materials list and cutting list for this project.

Cutting and Materials Lists and Construction drawings

Additional Information

• Figure A: Suspended Shelf Details
• Figure B: Shelf Detail
• Suspended Shelf Materials List
• Suspended Shelf Cutting List

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools]

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]